The fell stitch is a strong stitch that is mainly used for attaching linings to garments such as coats and jackets.

It can also be used for appliqué, for instance when attaching a waistband, ribbon or lace to your project.

 

The downside to the fell stitch is that if you are stitching onto a single layer of fabric, the fell stitch will be visible on both sides of the fabric*.

That's why you probably won't find the fell stitch used to hem clothing, as diagonal stitches would be visible from the front of the garment. A slip stitch or blind hem stitch would be much a better choice instead.

 

The main use of the fell stitch, therefore, is to sew a lining to a hem. In this scenario, the stitch is not visible from the outside of the garment because the stitch doesn't go through all the layers of fabric, and on the inside, the fell stitch presents as neat straight stitches.

 

* Unless the fabric layer is thick enough to 'bury' the stitches inside and hide them from view.

 

The other advantage for using this stitch to attach linings is that it is flexible, and allows a lining to move like a hinge against the main body of fabric. This proves useful when installing the lining, and also adds strength.

 

The following video tutorial walks you through the fell stitch technique: